Improvement in button-hole sewing machines



Y 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.' E. CAJAR.

y Button Hole Sewing Machne. No. 61,711. Patented Feb. 5, 1867.

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' 3 Sheets-Sheet' 2. E. CAJAR.

y Button Hole Swing Machine. No'. 61,711. Patented Feb. 5, 186'7.

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3 Sheets`Sheet 3. E. CAJAR.

Button Hole Sewing Machine.

No. 61,711. Patented Feb. 5, 1867.

@eine gratins gstrnt @fitte EMIL CAJAR, OF NEW YORK., N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND CHARLES SICHEL, OF SAME PLAGE.

Letters Patent No. 61,711, rqtcrl ,FeIn'atr/r'l/ 5, 1867; mzferlfncf January 28,1867.

IMPROVEMENT IN BUTTON-HOLE SEWING MACHINES.

@in rlyshnlc refont ta in these ttteris Qdi-uint zint making part nf iin sinne.

TO ALL WHOM IT MAY CONCERN:

Be it known that I, EMIL CAJAR,Yof the city, county, and State oi" New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Sewingnnd Button-Hole Machines; and I do hereby dcclnrc'thst the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, enabling those skilled in the nrt'tn fully understand and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 represents a. sectional side elevation of this invention.

Figure 2 shows the cloth-plate of the mnchine turned up so as to expose the mechanism attached to its under surface.

Figures 3, 4, and 5, are 'trnnsversc sect-ions of the same, showing the stitch-making mechanism' in different positions.

Figures G und T nre diagrams illustrating the stitch produced by this sewing machine.

Figure 8 is a. plan or top view of the feed mechanism required in sewing button-holes.

Figure 9 is zt'central section of the shuttle with .its barrel.

Figure l0 is s. plan or top view of the same.

Figure 11 is a. detached plan or top view of the spooling or winding mechanism.

Similar letters of reference in the i'igures indicate like parts.

This invention consists, rst, in n. stitch regulator which is secured to a rising and falling slide, occupying the place of the presserfoot in ordinary sewing machines, and which acts in conjunction withrthe needle-thread in such n. manner tha the feed of the fabric to be sewed is ,produced b y the action of the needle-thread, and that the ordinary feed mechanism can be dispensed with; second, in the arrangement of two longitudinally sliding bobbins, one of which carries the lower thread and 'the other the gimp, in combination with c. hook or looper,A

and with suitable spool-holders, in such a manner that by the combined notion of the hook and spool-holders the loop of the needle-thread is first drawn over one und then over the other bobbin, and the lon-'er thread and the gimp'are interlaced with the loop of the needle-thread, forming a. stitch of great firmness and durability; third,`n the arrangement of' a cum-groove nndvdouble crank, in combination with the loopcr and with the bobbins, in such a manner that the required motion is imparted to the looper to carry the loop of the needle-thread successively over the two bobbins; fourth, in the arrangement of a onse surrounding each bobbin, and provided with n central screw which turns in the case with the bobbin, und which is provided with a tension spring, und with two centres, one in each end, in such a. manner that the bobbin is fully protected by the case, und furthermore, the winding up of the thread on the bobbin is materially facilitated; ffth,.in the arrangement of a sliding-yoke in combination-with the bobbins and with three spool-holders, in such a. manner tht by said yoke the .desired reciprocating motion is imparted to the bobbins; sixth, in the arrangement of un oscillating arm, in combine, tion with the needle, the looper, and one or two bobbins, in such a. manner that a. positive strain is exerted on the needle-thread at the proper moment for the purpose of drawing up the surplus thread; seventh, in the arrangement of a longitudinally sliding und revolving cloth-holder, in combination with the transversely moving slide and with thecloth-plate of the sewing machine, in such a manner that by means of said cloth-holder a revolving motion can be imparted to the fabric to be sewed, and the' eyelets of the button-holes con be sewed as well as the rectilinear parts thereof, and furthermore, button-holes of any desired length can be sewed without requiring any change in the mechnnism,

' A represents the cloth-plate of this sewing machine, which is made of iron Aor any other suitable material, and connected to the legs B by means of hinge-joints, so that the same can be turned up Vto the position shown in fig. 2 of the drawing, and so that convenient access can be had tothe mechanism which is secured to the lower surface of the cloth-plate. From the cloth-plate rises the standard C, the outer end of which forms the bearing for the needle-slide D, and for the sl-ide E, to the lower end of which isvsecured the stitch regulator F. A reciprocating motion is imparted to the needle-slide by an lttrm, a, which extends from a rock-shaft, b, that has its bem-ings in t'wo lugs extending from the standard C, and which receives its motion from an eccentric, c, mounted on the main shaft G of the machine, and connecting with the rock-shaft b, by n. rod, d, and :tru/re, as shown particularly in fig. l-of the drawings. As the arm a rises it comes in contact with :t nose,f, prffjecting from the inner surface of the slide E, thus carrying up s'nid slide together with the stitch regulator nt the proper intervals. A spring, vq, which is connected to the regulator slide E, depresses the same ns soon asrlthe arm a releases the nosef. The stitch regula-tor F occupies the place of the ordinary presser-foot, but it isi/raised after every stitch from the position which it occupies in figs. 3 und 4 to thatwhich it occupies in fig. 5. This motion of the stitch regulator produces the feed-motion of the fabric t) be sewed in the following manner: At the moment inst before the stitch regulator begins to rise, the needle-thread extends from the eye of the needle across the bobbin-carrier to the looper, as shown in iig. 4, andwhen the needle and the stitch regulator have reached their highest position, the needle-'thread runs as shown in fig. 5. The direction of the path traversed by the extreme point of the stitch regulator, (which forms the bearing point of the needle-thread,) is indicated hy a dotted line, 1 2, in tig. 5, and if the stitch regulator hears on the fabric,the needle-thread extends from the point 1, Where the line 1-2 meets the fabric, to the looper, as shown in black dotted lines, but as the stitch regulator rises, the thread (which remains taut) advances to the position shown in full red lines in iig. 5, and as the thread advances it carries the fabric along and produces the feed motion. The length of the stitchcan thus be easily seen in fig. 5, and said length can be regulated by moving the point of the stitch regulator closer to or further from the needle, said stitch regulator beingconnected to the slide F in such a mannerthat it can easily be adjusted towards or'from the needle. The closer it is brought up to the needle the coarser the stitch will be, and by removing it further and further, the stitch can be reduced more and more until finally the feed motion ceases and the needle passes up and down through the same hole in the fabric. In order to permit this feed motion, the hole g, through which the needle passes down, is oblong, as seen in iig. 8. The stitch is produced by the combined action of the looper L, and of the needle n., the looper being so arranged that it carries the loop of the needle-thread in its forward motion over the shuttle or bobbin S containing the gimp, and in its backward motion over thel shuttle or hobbin S containing the lower thread. The looper consists of a hook which is hinged to an arm, 7L, extending from a rocking-thimble, z', which has its bearings on a pin fastened in a -bracket,j, that is secured toa pendent, k, on the under side of the cloth-plate, a rocking motion being imparted to the thimble, 1f, by an arm, Z, which connects by a rod, m, with an eccentric wrist-pin secured in a disk, o, that is mount-cd ou the end of the main shaft G. The arm Z, however, is longer than the distance of the eccentric wrist-pin'froin the centre of the disk o, and consequently the thimble z', instead of making a complete revolution, rocks back and forth through an arc of about ninety degrees (more or less.) The looper L is provided with a roller-stud, p, which projects from its inner surface and catches in a cam-slot, q, in a bracket,

H, which is secured to the under side of the cloth-plate, as seen in iigs. 1 and 3. By the peculiar form of the' cam-slot and by the rocking motion of the arm la, the looper moves first a short distance in a rectilinear direction towards the needle, which at that moment has slightly ascended from its lowest position so as to form a loop of its thread. This loop is caughtby the point of the looper, which immediately afterwards descends in the cam-slot, and passing the lowest point thereof rises on the opposite side to the `position in which it is shown in iig. 4. It then recedesl nearly to the lowest point of the cani-slot, as shown in iig. 5, at which point the arm h has reached its lowest position. As this arm rises, the looper advances once more to the position which it occupies in iig. 4:, and then it rapidly recedes until it reaches again the rectilinear portion of the cam-slot ready for the next succeeding stitch. As'the looper advances it carries the loop of the needle-thread over the bobbin S which contains the gimp. This bobbin is contained in a case or barrel, r, (see figs. 9 and 10,) and it is mounted on a centre pin, 8, which is provided with a square fitting nicely in one of the heads of the bobbin, and which is so arranged that it revolves freely in the head of the barrel. A. suitable nut, t, and tension spring, u, serve to regulate the friction of the pin s in its bearing, and consequently the. tension of the thread contained on the bobbin. The barrel'r containing the bobbin S is placed loosely in a stationary spool-holder, I, which is secured to the under surface of the cloth-plate, and the edges of which are chamfered otfso that the `loop of the needle-thread will slip over it without difficulty. The .bobbin S is placed close to and side by side with the bobbin S, (see fig. 1,) which contains the lower thread, and which is constructed precisely like the bobbin S beingenclosed in a similar case or barrel, andif the bobbin S occupies the spool-holder I, the bobbin S is supported by the additional spool-holder I, but if the bobbin S is moved into the spool-holder-'L'vthe bobbin'S, passes in a socket I in the bracket H, which is provided with the cam-slot q. The two bobbius are held close together by two disks, vv', which are secured to the ends of pins, 10, projecting from a yoke, J, which straddles the several spool-holders I I I, and is secured to a rod, x, to which a reciprocating motion is imparted by a lever, a, and cam-groove, b2, (see iig. 1.) This camgroove is cut in the circumference of a drum that is mounted on the main shaft G, and vit is-so shapedthat the bobbiu S will occupy th'e`spool-ho1 der I until the looper L has passed the loop of the needle-thread over said spool-holder, and has reached its highest point in the cam-slot q. At that moment the bobbins are moved so as to bring the bobbin S into the spool-holder I, and as the looper recedes the loop of the needle-thread passes back ove'r the bobbin S, while the needle keeps ascending and the stitch is drawn tight by the shape of the spool-holder. On reaching the lowest point of the camslot, the looper drops the loop of the needle-thread on a shoulder, c2, formed on the bottom part of the spool-holder, and it then ascends .a second time, leaving the loop on said shoulder, until an arm, K, through which the needle-thread passes on its way from the spool S* to the eye of the needle, begins to rise, causing the loop of the needle-thread to slip back over the spool-holder I, and to draw up the surplus thread. By these means, the loop of the needle-thread is caused to pass over the gimp contained on the bobbin S in one direction, and over the bobbin S containing the lower thread in the oppqsite direction, and a. stitch is formed such as shown in ,iigs. 6 and ,7; iig. 7 representing a single stitch, and fig. 6a succession of stitches. From these figures it will be seen that` the lower thread and thegimp are interlaced with the needle-thread, and if the stitch is drawn tight the needle-thread is caused to twist in the fabric, anda stitch is produced of great firmness and applicable particularly for button-holes. The arm K, which draws in the surplus thread, extends from a shaft, M, which has its bearings in suitable lugs projecting from the side of the standard Ctand it runs parallel to the rockshaft 11, which imparts motion to the needle-slide and to thestitch regulator. A rocking motion is imparted to the shaft M by a cam, d2, on the main shaft G, which acts on a lever, (1*, from` which extends a rod, e2, to an arm, f2, secured to theend of the shaft M, and the cam Il is so shaped that it imparts to the arm K the desired motion in one direction, while a spring coiled about the shaft imparts to it motion in the opposite' direction.

For the purpose of sewing button-holes, the fabric in which the button-hole is cutis secured to a circular clothguide, N, which is provided with points, g2, which serve to retain the fabric, and with a pear-shaped slot, h2, by means of which it can be slipped over a segmental projection, i2, which is shown in dotted lines iii lig. 8, and in .section in various figures. This projection is situated under a disk, f2, that rises from the cloth-plate A, being rigidly connected to the same by a ring, k?, both the disk and ring being perforated with an oblong hole, lg. to let the needle pass down and allowY the needle-thread to produce the feed motion as previously described. The segmental projection z2 passes freely over the ring lf", and it is provided with an oblong slot, Z2, so as toallow said projection to move back and forth in a direction at right angles to the ordinary feed motion of the fabric to be sewcd. The reciprocating motion of the segmental projection is produced by a-slide, 'm2, to one part of which it is firmly connected, said slidc being' attached to a rod, n?, to which a reciprocating motion is imparted by means of a cam, o2. This cam is mounted on a vertical shaft, p2, to which a revolving motion is impartedv by a bevel-gear, r2, from the driving-shaft, and said cam acts on two arms, s2 t, one of which is adjustable on the rod nz, by a sct-screw, u2, while the vother is set inl the desired position by a regulating screw, v2, which is vconnected tothe rod u2, and to the arm t2, in such a manner that by its action said arm is caused to slide 'on the rod and it is brought closer to or further from the contre of the vertical shaft 1r". By means of theregulating screw v2, therefore, theA throw of the slide m2, and consequently that of the parts attached thereto, can be adjusted, and, if desired, said throw can be reduced to nothing, leaving the slide m2 stationary. By thus imparting to the circular clothguide N a reciprocating motion in the direction at rightangles to the ordinary feed motion of the fabric to be sewed, the needleis caused to pass down alternately through the button-hole, and then again through the fabric, anda stitch is produced imitating closely the ordinary handstitch for button-holes;

'In sewing a buttonhole the operation is commenced at tho point thereof, the fabric being attached to the circular cloth-guide in such a position that the sanlo is free to move with the cloth-guide in thedirection of the ordinary .feed motion, just far enough to allow of sewing up the eye of the button-hole. At that point, the circular part of the slot in the cloth-guide has come close up to the segmental projection z', and it para now be turned together with the fabric attached to it for the purpose of sewing round the eye of the button-hole. This turning motion is produced partly by hand and partly by the feed motion ofthc needle-thread, or, if desired, a suitable mechanism may be applied to produce the same. j By this arrangement the sewing of a button-hole is rendered easy and simple, and the sewing machine can be readily changed for doing plain or ornamental sewing or for making button-holes, simply by turning the regulating screw if. The spool S* which contains the needlethread is an ordinary spool, and requires no rcwinding, but the lower thread, and the gimp contained-on the bobbins SS', have to be wound thereon from a common spool, and in order to facilitate this operation the centre pin s of each bobbin, (sec iig. 9,) is provided with concave centres so that the same, together with its bobbin and barrel, can be placed between two centre points may?. These centre points have their bearings in a U-shaped bracket Aor head, '0, w'hich is secured to the back part of the cloth-plate, and a detached plan of which is shown in iig' l1. The'centre y2 revolves in its bearing and it carries a disk or face-plate wz, which also forms Y a pulley, the periphery of which is made of India rubber or other elastic material, and so adjusted that it bears against the-circumference ofthe driving-pulley P, on the main shaft Gr, thus imparting to said disk 'w2 a rapid revolving motion. From this disk projects a stud, z", which is intended to catch in a hole, a, in the exposed head of the bobbin, (see iigs. 9 and 10,) so that said bobbin is compelled to revolve with the disk. The centre :1:2 slides back and forth in its' socket, being subjected to lthe action of a spring, b3, which has a tendency to force the same in towards the centre y. The centre :1:2 is intended to sustain that end of the centre pin s which turns freely in the head of thc barrel r, and the barrel is provided with an oblong aperture, c, in its circumference, through which the thread passes into the bobbin. If the end of the thread is secured to the core of the bobbin and the disk 'w2 is caused to revolve, a rapid revolving motion is imparted to the bobbin, the barrel being retained oy a stud which projects from the bracket O, (see lig. 11,) and which catches in a hole in the barrel, and a large quantity of thread can be wound on thebobbin quite easily and in a short time, and by having the aperture c3 extend the full width of the bobbin the thread -can be woundk evenly and regularly. The pin s has a screw-thread thereon, and is provided with a nut, t, which bears on a spring, so that by turning the nut the bobbin can be made to bear with more or less power against the head of the barrel, and thereby the tension of the bobbin-thread can be regulated.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. '.llrhe stitch regulator F to act in conjunction with the needle-thread, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The arrangement of two longitudinally sliding bobbins S S', in combination with the looper L, constructed and operatingsubstantially as and for the purpose described.

3. The cam-'groove q, and double crank kl, in combination with the looper L, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

4. The barrel r, surrounding the bobbin S or S', in combination with the central tension screw s, which is provided with concave centres, substantially as and for the purpose described.

5. The sliding-yoke J, with disksv o', in combination with'thc bobbins S S and spool-holders II I, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth. l v

6. The oscillating arm K, in combination with thev two bobbins S S', spool-holders I, needle n, and looper L, constructed and operating substantially as andfor the purpose described.

7. The longitudinally sliding and revolving cloth-holder N, in combination with the slide m2, and with the cloth-plate A, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose described.

EMIL CAJAR.

Witnesses W. HAUFF, E. HAUrr. 

